Using this repair manual is an inexpensive way to keep you vehicle working properly. Each manual provides step-by-step instructions based on the complete disassembly of the machine. It is this level of detail, along with hundreds of photos and illustrations, that guide the reader through each service and repair procedure.
Simply print out the pages you need or print the entire manual as a whole!!! This manual also makes it easy to diagnose and repair problems with your machines electrical system!
Troubleshooting and electrical service procedures are combined with detailed wiring diagrams for ease of use. Complete download comes in pdf format which can work under all PC based windows operating system and Mac also. All pages are printable. No need to pay for shipping and wait for the overpriced paper textbook or CD-ROM to arrive via snail mail.
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Notes, cautions and warnings throughout each chapter pinpoint critical information. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection.
Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.
Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets because they won't last very long. There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards.
The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual Book no.
It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle. Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray.
Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential.
It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside it is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.
A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station.
Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable.
To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface such as the fuel tank cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions.
There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant.
DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you.
DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paint work or plastic components. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health see Asbestos heading. DON'T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.
DON'T inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly. DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal.
DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -'it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery.
Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing cuffs, ties etc. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.
IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible. Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline petrol vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive.
Never use gasoline petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times.
Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent.
Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully.
Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapors. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery.
It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground earth terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems except where noted. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery.
The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.
When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc. Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.
Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical" system, such as the spark plug wires HT leads , when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective.
Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair.
They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used ; it also leaves no residue.
Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks. Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil.
Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease. Gear oil sometimes called gear lube is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities weights for various applications.
Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights viscosity ratings of from 5 to The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine.
Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have Characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W to 20W Gas petrol additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts.
They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems.
Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.
Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays.
Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent. Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal- to-metal joints.
Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces. Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration.
It is available in a variety of types for different applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish.
Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized dull paint on older-vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
Check fuse block Chapter 8. Check and recharge battery Chapter 8. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure. Test starter relay Chapter 8. If the relay is good, then the fault is in the wiring or motor. Check it according to the procedure in. The contacts could be wet, corroded or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch Chapter 8. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to ground see wiring diagram, Chapter 8.
Check the switch according to the procedure in Chapter 8. Replace the switch with a new one if it is defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary Chapter 8.
Inspect and repair or replace. Inspect and replace the damaged parts Chapter 2. Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include seized valves, valve lifters, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings.
Refer to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly. Usually caused by dirt or water. Remove it and clean the cap vent hole. Replace the filter Chapter 1. Test it according to the procedures in Chapter 8. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it. For both of the valves to be clogged, either a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets.
The carburetors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float chambers doesn't solve the problem. Check and adjust as described in Chapter 3. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl.
In this case, the float chamber. If the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be replaced with new ones Chapter 3. Under normal circumstances i. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine.
This will allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back on after the engine starts. Check and recharge battery as necessary. Locate reason for fouled plug s using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.
Check condition. Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are evident Chapter 4. Make sure that the plug cap fits snugly over the plug end. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 4 for details. Check the unit s , referring to Chapter 4 for details.
Check the coils, referring to Chapter 4. This is usually caused by water, corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, replace the switches Chapter 8 ,. Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight.
Look for chafed and broken wires Chapters 4 and 8. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque Chapter 1. If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence Chapter 2.
This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances Chapter 1.
Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary Chapter 2. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands.
Piston replacement is necessary Chapter 2. If one of the heads is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on a piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary Chapter 2.
This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts and bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary Chapter 2. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring s must be replaced Chapter 2. This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat improper carburetion or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat from carburetion or lubrication problems.
Make sure the choke lever XV or choke cable all others is getting a full stroke and staying in the out position. See Chapter 4. See Chapter 3. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls Chapter 3.
Check for loose carburetor-to-intake joint connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top Chapter 3. Turn throttle stop screw until the engine idles at the specified rpm Chapter 1. See Chapter 1. Adjust carburetors with vacuum gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1. Service or replace air filter element Chapter 1. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance. Refer to Chapters. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without fouling. Remove and overhaul the carburetors Chapter 3. Remove carburetor and blow out all passages Chapter 3. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair defective parts. Adjust the floats Chapter 3. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots.
If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak.
This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat improper carburetion or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat from carburetion, lubrication problems.
Overhaul the carburetors Chapter 3. The pickup coil s or the igniter may be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they can't be repaired.
Adjust them with a vacuum gauge set or manometer Chapter 1. Using a heavier oil than that recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary Chapter 6.
Clean or replace filter Chapter 1. See Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance. See Chapters. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets and carburetor orifices Chapter 3. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.
Refer to Chapter 3 for inspection and part replacement procedures. Remove and overhaul carburetors Chapter 3. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and replace or repair defective parts. Adjust the float s Chapter 3. Make sure the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. Repair or replace the rubber boots Chapter 3. Remove the tap and clean it Chapter 1.
If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct Sequence Chapter 2. A top end overhaul is necessary Chapter 2. Piston replacement is. This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat.
Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized Chapter 2. Old or improper grades of fuel can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound. Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel grade.
Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug Chapter 1. This will cause the cylinder to run hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. Adjust the cable slack Chapter 1. May be caused by a cable that is improperly adjusted or loose or worn clutch components.
Refer to Chapter 2 for cable replacement and clutch overhaul procedures. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.
Repair as necessary. Check and add oil Chapter 1. If you're not sure what type of oil is in the engine, drain it and fill with the correct type Chapter 1. Check and tighten or replace as necessary Chapter 3. Check and adjust if necessary Chapter 3. Replace pump or clean passages as necessary. Remove and check for foreign material see Chapter 2. Use of a fuel additive. Otherwise, the cylinder heads will have to be removed and decarbonized Chapter 2.
Replace cam, bushing or cylinder head. Abnormal wear could be caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper viscosity or type of oil Chapter 1. Same problems as paragraph 3. Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburetors. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main jets.
Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets and carburetor orifices Chapter 3. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch oonents. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures. Engine oil level too high.
The addition of too much oil will cause pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Using a heavier oil than the one r ecommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine. Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating.
The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level Chapter 1. Oil is rated not only according to viscosity but also according to type.
Some oils are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the Specifications section and change to the correct oil Chapter 1. Excessive wear causing drop in oil. Overhaul the clutch assembly Chapter 2. Old or heat-damaged spring s from slipping clutch should be replaced with new ones Chapter 2. Replace any defective parts Chapter 2.
This causes improper engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts Chapter 2. Clutch cable improperly adjusted see Chapter 1. This will cause clutch drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep. Check and replace the spring s Chapter 2. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag.
Replace the oil and filter Chapter 1. Using a thicker oil than recommended in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag on the engine. Change to the correct viscosity oil Chapter 1. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage Chapter 2.
Worn or damaged release mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure plate. Causes housing and boss misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually varies. Often caused by dropping the machine or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission Chapter 2. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear.
Replace the cam and bearing Chapter 2. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Replace necessary parts Chapter 2. Full engagement and rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly Chapter 2. Allows pawl to float, causing sporadic shift operation. Replace spring Chapter 2. The gears should be inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the worn parts.
Old or improper fuel can cause detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended grade fuel Chapter 1. Uncontrolled detonation indicates that the plug heat range is too hot. This will cause the cylinders to run hot and lead to detonationrClogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. Caused by improper assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts Chapter 2.
Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts Chapter 2. Replace damaged parts Chapter 2. Overhaul the top end Chapter 2. Usually from lack of lubrication or overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary Chapter 2.
Caused by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts. Adjust the clearances by referring to Chapter 1. Check and replace weak valve springs Chapter 2. Lack of lubrication at high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes. Caused by improper fit of pipe s or loose exhaust flange.
All exhaust fasteners should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to a leak. Caused by a bent crankshaft from over-revving or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.
Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the crankshaft ends. Tighten all engine mounting bolts and nuts to the specified torque Chapter 2.
Replace according to the procedure in Chapter 2. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are worn. Probably pieces from a broken clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. This will cause early bearing failure Chapter 2. Causes a howl from transmission. Also affects engine power and clutch operation Chapter 1. Tighten fasteners Chapter 5. Replace sprocket s. Chapter 5. Replace Chapter 5.
Replace coupling Chapter 5. This can sound like spurting and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action Chapter 5. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork oil, when drained, will have a lot of metal particles in it Chapter 5. Clicks when braking. Make sure all triple clamp pinch bolts are tight Chapter 5. Good possibility if machine has been dropped. Tighten them to the specified torque Chapter 6. Indicates a leak caused by defective seal. This is in the body of the shock and can't be remedied.
The shock must be replaced with a new one Chapter 5. Replace the shock with a new one. Usually found in combination with glazed pads. Clean using brake cleaning solvent. Oil, brake fluid or dirt causing brake to chatter or squeal.
Clean or replace pads Chapter 6. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged use or from contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth, carborundum cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the pad surfaces as abrasives will stay in the pad material and damage the disc. A very fine flat file can be used, but pad replacement is suggested as a cure Chapter 6. Can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven braking. Can cause scraping or squealing.
Replace the shoes Chapter 6. Can cause chattering. Replace the linings Chapter 6. Replace brake drum Chapter 6. Check and replace as needed Chapter 6. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low oil level and add recommended oil Chapters 1 and 2. Replace it if it's defective. Check for pinched, shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring Chapter 8. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing oil from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the combustion chamber.
Replace the rings with new ones Chapter 2. Caused by overheating or oil starvation. If worn or scored, the cylinders will have to be rebored and new pistons installed. If cracked, the cylinder block will have to be replaced see Chapter 2.
Replace oil seals with new ones Chapter 2. Perform a complete valve job Chapter 2. Drain oil to the proper level Chapter 1. Causes oil to be pulled into the combustion chamber. Replace the head gasket and check the head for warpage Chapter 2. Clogged breather or hoses usually the cause Chapter 2. Clean or replace the element Chapter 1. Compare the jet size to the Specifications Chapter 3. Check and adjust the float level as necessary Chapter 3.
Clean the float bowls and fuel line and replace the needles and seats if necessary Chapter 3. Lean condition caused by wrong size main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float bowl and jets and compare jet size to Specifications Chapter 3.
Fuel inlet needle valve stuck closed due to chemical reaction with old fuel. Float level incorrect. Restricted fuel line. Clean line and float bowl and adjust floats if necessary. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned from side-to-side. Replace bearings and races Chapter 5. Races dented or worn. Denting results from wear in only one position e. Replace races and bearings Chapter 5.
Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don't try to straighten the steering stem Chapter 5. Replace worn bearings by referring to. Inspect wheels for runout Chapter 6. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble Chapter 6. Tighten them to the specified torque Chapter 5.
Will cause excessive vibration with increased engine rpm Chapter 2. Caused by contamination with oil, grease, brake fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake cleaner Chapter 6. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain system, replenish with new fluid and bleed the system Chapter 6. Repair or replace master cylinder Chapter 6.
Replace disc Chapter 6. Replace axle Chapter 5. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been dropped. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the bend. Replace the frame Chapter 5. Caused by improper location of axle spacers or from bent steering stem or frame Chapter 5. Caused by age metal fatigue or impact damage. Replace the swingarm Chapter 5. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the motorcycle. Replace the steering stem Chapter 5. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged parts Chapter 5.
Check and add or drain as necessary. Use a lighter oil see the Specifications in Chapter 1. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling Chapter 5. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes Chapter 6. See paragraph 1. Caused by wear or damage to piston or cylinder bore Chapter 6. Check pivot and lubricate Chapter 6. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage to caliper shafts Chapter 6. Caused by wear or ingestion of dirt past deteriorated seal Chapter 6 ,.
Pad material separated from backing plate. Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact with chemicals. Replace pads Chapter 6. Replace brake springs Chapter 6. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through sedimentation or low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery terminal making only occasional contact Chapter 8.
Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other electrical accessories. Replace the switch Chapter 8. Wiring grounded or connections loose in ignition, charging or lighting circuits Chapter 8. Overcharging is noticed when battery gets excessively warm or boils over Chapter 8. Replace battery with a new one Chapter 8. Install manufacturer's specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load Chapter 8.
Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease. Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant. Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil.
Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil. Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined in the owner's manual covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily basis.
It's condensed and included here to remind you of its importance. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval in addition to the procedures listed. The intervals listed below are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual.
Your owner's manual may have different intervals for your model. Check the operation of both brakes - also check the front brake fluid level and look for leakage. Check the tires for damage, the presence of foreign objects and correct air pressure. Check for proper operation of the headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals, indicator lights and horn.
Make sure the sidestand and centerstand, if equipped returns to its fully up position and stays there under spring pressure. Check the front forks for proper operation and fluid leaks Check the tires, wheels and wheel bearings. Check the battery electrolyte level and specific gravity; inspect the breather tube.
Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the condition of the fuel lines and vacuum hoses. Inspect the crankcase ventilation system Check the operation of the sidestand switch Check and adjust clutch cable free play. This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your motorcycle.
Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain detailed procedures for carrying out the items listed on the maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance information designed to increase reliability. Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here as a comprehensive check list.
For the rider who does all his own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be done on a routine basis.
Maintenance information is printed on labels attached to the motorcycle see illustrations. If the information on the labels differs from that included here, use the information on the label. Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or calendar interval.
If you have owned the machine for some time but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked.
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